At our villa in Candidasa, our very kind neighbour, Wayan, turned out to be invaluable during our stay. We needed help with various things – from ordering coconuts to organizing massages and booking a diving trip. All it took was a quick phone call to Wayan. One afternoon, he suggested we have lunch together. We agreed that his family would prepare the meal, and we would cover the cost of the ingredients. Wayan ordered freshly caught mahi-mahi for us, which his fisherman relative brought over.

Initially, the plan was to have lunch at our villa, but we ended up visiting Wayan’s home.

 Photo: Family lunch at Wayan’s home

It was a unique opportunity for us to see what a real Balinese home looks like. We sat in a concrete courtyard surrounded by living quarters, with chickens, a rooster, a dog, and ever-present flies around us. In the centre of the courtyard stood a small shrine, where Wayan’s elderly parents spent their time nearby. For religious reasons, they didn’t eat with the rest of the family. Wayan mentioned that his father is over 100 years old and his mother is over 90. The contrast between the living conditions of the locals and what is offered to tourists was quite striking.

Learning about local practices

I wondered about the significance of the two umbrellas over the shrine, one white and one yellow, and later learned that umbrellas in Balinese shrines hold deep symbolic meaning and are an integral part of Balinese rituals and ceremonies.

White Umbrella

Symbol of purity and sanctity: The white umbrella (in Balinese, “tedung”) symbolizes purity, spirituality, and holiness. It is often associated with gods, spirits, and sacred places.

Protection from evil spirits: The white umbrella is used to protect from negative forces and to cleanse spaces, which is important in Balinese tradition, where harmony between the material and spiritual worlds is key.

Yellow Umbrella

Symbol of wisdom and knowledge: Yellow is often associated with wisdom, knowledge, and life energy. In a religious context, the yellow umbrella symbolizes enlightenment and spiritual understanding.

Representation of deities: The yellow umbrella often represents specific deities, especially those related to wisdom and learning, such as Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge.

Umbrellas in shrines also serve a protective role for sacred objects and help maintain the spiritual harmony of the place, shielding it from negative influences. They are part of a broader system of symbolism that is integral to Balinese religious practices.

Photo: Wayan’s courtyard

Photo: Wayan’s courtyard

Delicious cuisine

Wayan’s wife, who had given us massages earlier that day, prepared the mahi-mahi in several ways: in a sauce with vegetables, baked with ginger in banana leaves, and grilled. Due to the flies, we had to keep the food covered, which was a bit inconvenient. Fortunately, the taste of the dishes made up for this.

Photo: Mahi-mahi mixed with ginger

Photo: Mahi-mahi prepared in several ways

Photo: Grilled mahi-mahi at Wayan’s

An interesting new dessert

During lunch, a friend of Wayan brought an intriguing-looking wooden box, which we found contained betel, a mild stimulant. Marianna’s mother was particularly excited when we were offered the chance to try it. After tasting it, I got the impression that my mother-in-law felt a bit euphoric for a while. 😊

Betel is an important cultural, social, and traditional element, especially in the context of respect and support for the elderly in the community. Also known as areca, it is a popular chewing substance in South and Southeast Asia.

Ingredients of betel include:

Betel pepper leaves (Piper betel): These have antiseptic properties and are the base ingredient for betel chewing.

Areca nut seeds (Areca catechu): These contain alkaloids that have stimulating effects.

Slaked lime: Added to release the alkaloids from the areca nut seeds.

Additives: Sometimes, spices, tobacco, or other ingredients are added for flavor.

Photo: Betel ingredients

Why betel is given to the elderly in Bali

• Cultural tradition: Chewing betel is deeply rooted in Balinese culture and is a part of many ceremonies and rituals. It is considered a sign of respect and hospitality, as well as a symbol of longevity and health.
• Social interaction: Chewing betel is often a social activity that promotes human interaction, bonding, and social integration. Elderly people often participate in these gatherings, which helps them stay socially and mentally active.
• Stimulant properties: Areca nut seeds contain alkaloids that have stimulating effects, similar to caffeine. Chewing betel can help older people maintain energy and alertness.
• Antiseptic and digestive benefits: Betel leaves have antiseptic properties that can help maintain oral hygiene, and they also aid digestion, which is particularly important for the elderly.
• Traditional beliefs: In many Asian cultures, including Bali, betel is believed to have healing and protective properties. Chewing betel may be seen as a way to maintain health and ward off evil spirits.

Photo: Marianna’s mother trying betel