We had the option of visiting the rice terraces in either Jatiluwih or Tegallalang. Ultimately, we chose the latter, primarily because it was nearly an hour closer and came recommended by our host. Tegallalang is the most popular rice terrace in Bali, though this popularity has led to significant commercialisation. We purchased our tickets next to the car park, and “guides” escorted us to the entrance through one of the restaurants. In truth, you could simply enter via the restaurant without paying, but the entry fee is minimal, about £2 per person.

Before reaching the entrance, we stopped at a small stall where a man was handcrafting notebooks from rice paper and leaves, carefully gluing each piece together. You could even request a notebook with your name on it. Marianna ended up making quite a few purchases here.

Photo: Man handcrafting notebooks from banana palm and rice paper

After spending a good 20 minutes choosing notebooks, we finally made our way to the Tegallalang terraces.

Photo: Panoramic view Tegallalang Rice Terraces

Photo: Tegallalang Rice Terraces

We followed one of the paths and quickly encountered another checkpoint requesting payment. This time, Marianna’s mum firmly insisted that we already had tickets, and we confidently walked on. The young man didn’t object. After around 20 minutes, we were all feeling quite thirsty, and the cold coconuts being sold along the way were too tempting to pass up. Drinking a fresh coconut gave us a lot of energy to continue our walk. We bought our coconuts from a kind man who was happy to pose for a picture with us. Although his English wasn’t great, we learned that he was 70 years old. Earlier along the path, we came across some tourists who had turned back, uncertain if the route led to the main road. The coconut seller reassured us that we could continue and would eventually reach a small hanging bridge, which would lead us back to the main road – and he was right.

Photo: Me with the coconut seller

Photo: Enjoying coconuts at Tegallalang rice terraces

Most of the terraces had just been harvested, so we didn’t get to see the lush green fields we had hoped for, but the views were still breathtaking. If you’re keen to see vibrant green rice paddies, there are other places worth visiting. During our time in Bali, we saw rice fields at various stages of growth, from those submerged in water to lush green shoots and finally to golden stalks ready for harvest.

Photo: Tegallalang Rice Terraces

Photo: Tegallalang Rice Terraces

After another 30 minutes of peaceful walking, we reached the hanging bridge the coconut seller had mentioned. On the other side were steps leading to a restaurant and the main road. After drinking so many coconuts, all we could think about was finding a toilet – something you have to manage on your own at the rice terraces. There are simply no toilets there.

Photo: Slopes with houses and restaurants at the Tegallalang terraces

In hindsight, we might have opted for a less commercialised location, like Jatiluwih, to experience a more authentic setting. The swings, offered as part of a package deal at the entrance, were not to our taste. The loud shouts, not from the tourists on the swings but from the Balinese staff operating them, were quite overwhelming and disturbed the tranquillity that many visitors seek in such a place.